New Warnings from the FDA on Raw Food Diets

By Emilio E. DeBess, DVM, MPVM, State Public Health Veterinarian, Oregon Department of Human Services

November 2013

FDA warns about feeding your pet a raw-food diet

In a new study, compared to other types of pet food tested, raw pet food was more likely to be contaminated with disease-causing bacteria, the FDA said

“The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is cautioning pet owners about feeding their animals raw diets, warning that those who do may have a higher risk of getting infected with Salmonella and Listeria monocytogenes.”

In a new study, compared to other types of pet food tested, raw pet food was more likely to be contaminated with disease-causing bacteria, the agency said.

The new warning was issued after a two-year study, in which the FDA Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) screened more than 1,000 samples of pet food for bacteria that can cause foodborne illnesses.

In the study, CVM sampled 196 commercially available raw dog and cat food. The center bought a variety of raw pet food online from different manufacturers and had the products shipped directly to six laboratories for analysis, according to the FDA. The raw pet-food products were usually frozen in tubelike packages and made from ground meat or sausage.

Of the samples analyzed, 15 were positive for salmonella and 32 were positive for listeria.

The study “identified a potential health risk for the pets eating the raw food, and for the owners handling the product,” said Dr. Renate Reimschuessel, a researcher at CVM’s Office of Research and one of the study’s principal investigators.

The FDA said the best way to prevent infection is to not feed your pet a raw diet; however, the agency is aware that some people prefer this type of food and offers some tips to prevent salmonella and listeria:

·      Thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water (for at least 20 seconds) after handling raw pet food, and after touching surfaces or objects that have come in contact with the raw food. Potential contaminated surfaces include countertops and the inside of refrigerators and microwaves. Potential contaminated objects include kitchen utensils, feeding bowls and cutting boards.

·      Thoroughly clean and disinfect all surfaces and objects that come in contact with raw pet food. You can also run items through the dishwasher after each use to clean and disinfect them.

·      Freeze raw meat and poultry products until you are ready to use them, and thaw them in your refrigerator or microwave, not on your countertop or in your sink.

·      Carefully handle raw and frozen meat and poultry products. Don’t rinse raw meat, poultry, fish and seafood. Bacteria in the raw juices can splash and spread to other food and surfaces.

·      Keep raw food separate from other food.

·      Immediately cover and refrigerate what your pet doesn’t eat or throw the leftovers out safely.

·      If you’re using raw ingredients to make your own cooked pet food, be sure to cook all food to a proper internal temperature as measured by a food thermometer. Thorough cooking kills harmful foodborne bacteria.

·      Don’t kiss your pet around its mouth, and don’t let your pet lick your face. This is especially important after your pet has just finished eating raw food.

·      Thoroughly wash your hands after touching or being licked by your pet. If your pet gives you a “kiss,” be sure to also wash your face.

Why Fat Cats and Dogs are a Problem

By Beth Davidow, DVM DACVECC

Wednesday, October 9, 2013

As the fall sets in, I always feel that I really want to eat more. The colder weather means we are inside, closer to the kitchen. I find I’m baking more and thinking about desserts for upcoming holidays. As we eat more, and spend more time in the kitchen, our furry companions tend to join us and they know just how to meet our eyes, do tricks and convince us, that they too need a little extra something yummy.

But just as extra pounds can be problematic for us, extra pounds can also be problematic for our pets. Because they are smaller than us, we sometimes don’t realize how much the percentage gain really is. While if we average 150 lbs and then went up to 200 lbs over the winter, we would probably be very concerned with our weight gain, we sometimes don’t bat an eye when our 15 lb cat suddenly becomes 20 lbs, a similar proportional gain.

Obesity is a huge problem for animals and has been an increasing problem. As in humans, obesity in our pets can lead to bone and joint problems, increased risk for certain cancers, increased heart and lung problems, increased urinary issues, and much increased risk for diabetes.

At our emergency hospital, one common life-threatening emergency in cats is urinary blockage. There are good studies that show that overweight cats are at a much higher risk for this condition than cats in good body condition. In small dogs, a large portion of the dogs with severe respiratory problems are also overweight. Many of these patients present on emergency needing oxygen and end up on many medications. If owners are successful in having these dogs lose weight, many end up requiring less medications over the long haul.

So why do dogs and cats become obese?  In the vast majority of cases it is because caloric intake is in excess of the calories burned during the day. In a few cases, they have an underlying problem such as hypothyroidism but this is the exception not the rule. Thus, to keep thin, pets either need less calories or more exercise. As in people, often the culprit is not the meals but the in between meal snacks. Remember that if your 10 lb dog usually gets a ¼ cup of food twice a day, two large milk bones probably increased his calories by 10%.

This fall, try not to succumb to that cute little face cocking their head at you to share your muffin. Although extra treats may show them you love them in the short term, the consequence may be higher vet bills and more trips to the emergency room. Instead, pick up their leash, brave the rain, and take them for a walk. You will both be happier and healthier in the long run. 

Parvovirus – An update

By Beth Davidow, DVM DACVECC

ACCES Medical Director

A week ago, we alerted referring veterinarians in the area to an uptick in the number of parvovirus cases we were seeing at ACCES’ two referral hospitals (Seattle and Renton). Word quickly spread to the greater community setting off an unexpected scare.

Parvovirus is a virus that causes vomiting and severe diarrhea. In addition, it can suppress the immune system and put animals at risk for secondary infections. It mainly affects puppies and can cause death if not treated appropriately. With treatment, which includes intravenous fluids, anti-nausea medication, antibiotics and plasma in severe cases, survival is 90%. Adults dogs can get the infection as well but often are less sick or may shed virus and not have clinical signs.

The virus is shed in stool and can live in the environment for weeks to months. It is extremely hardy and not killed by standard disinfectants – bleach is most effective. The virus can be passed from an animal shedding the virus, picked up on clothes, shoes, and other objects, and then carried to another animal.

Parvovirus is not a new infection. It is a virus we have known about for a long time and one of the first diseases for which we developed a vaccine for dogs. The vaccine is extremely effective when administered properly. Puppies need to receive vaccines every three to four weeks from eight weeks of age until they are over 16 weeks of age, again at one year and then every three years thereafter.

The difficulty with this disease is that puppies often get sick in the window after they have had one vaccine but not the full series. If puppies are in environments where the virus has been shed by asymptomatic carriers, they can pick up the virus. Health for the dog population relies on compliance by everyone – a concept known as “herd immunity”.

This year we have seen an uptick in the number of parvo cases. We see an average of 16 cases a year and have diagnosed 28 this year, eight in the last three weeks. The virus does ebb and flow so this may just be a high year. Cases have been from a number of locations and have been mostly young, incompletely vaccinated dogs. However, it is also possible that the move away from vaccines has led to less herd immunity and more shedding of virus. Speaking to other hospitals in the area, some are also seeing more cases but other clinics north of us are not.

Our recommendations are:

1)     VACCINATE – make sure your puppy gets the full SERIES of vaccines up to at least 16 weeks of year. Make sure the vaccine is boostered one year later and then every three years after that.

2)     Do not take incompletely vaccinated puppies to dog parks or other high traffic areas. Dog parks are great places to socialize but only after the full series of puppy shots have been given.

3)     If you have a dog with vomiting and diarrhea, have them seen promptly. Early diagnosis and proper treatment does lead to a good long term outcome.

If your dog is fully vaccinated, there is no reason to avoid the dog parks – let your dogs play if we have a sunny day. 

Rabies in Washington State

By Dr. Beth Guerra

I grew up in the Midwest, where rabies was more prevalent in wildlife such as bats, raccoons, coyotes, and skunks as well as the rare household pet. In Washington state the primary animal that has been identified is the bat. Although the risk is fairly low (less than 1% of bats are infected), the virus is nearly always fatal and care should be taken to avoid exposure.

In 2011, 11 bats in Washington state tested positive for rabies in the following counties: Chelan, Clallam, Island, King, Lewis, Pierce, Snohomish, Walla Walla, and Whatcom. As of July 2012, there have already been three infected bats in similar counties. The most recent case of rabies in a household pet (cat) was in 2002 in Walla Walla county, and the last two human cases were in 1995 and 1997. All of these cases were infected with bat rabies.

Bats that carry rabies are usually clinically ill and cannot fly properly. This makes them more likely to be found by humans or household animals. There have also been reports of bats getting into houses and being found in closets or shoes. The teeth of the bat are very small and a bite may not be easily detected, especially if a person is bitten while sleeping.

Rabies is a virus that affects the central nervous system. The virus is found in saliva and transmitted via bite or scratch wounds. Household pets are exposed through wildlife and are usually the source of exposure for humans. Early symptoms may include headache and fever, but within two to eight weeks can progress to confusion, paralysis, and difficulty swallowing. If exposure is suspected, the exposed person usually begins a regimen of injections, including rabies immunoglobulin as well as the vaccine, over a two week period.  The best treatment is prevention.

As of January 1, 2012, current rabies vaccines are required for all dogs, cats, and ferrets. Rabies vaccines are readily available at veterinary clinics and are inexpensive. If a household pet is exposed to rabies, there is mandatory six month quarantine, so vaccination is best.

The following information was taken from the Washington State Department of Health:

What should I do if an animal bites me?

Clean the site of any animal bite with soap and water. Contact your health care provider and Public Health Communicable Disease and Epidemiology at (206) 296-4774 to determine the potential for rabies exposure, the need for treatment, and to decide whether or not to test the animal for rabies.

What should I do if I find a bat in my living space?

Do not touch the bat. Close the doors and windows to the room. Wait until the bat lands on the floor or a wall. Wearing leather or other thick gloves, capture the bat in a can or box without touching it. Seal the container and call Public Health Communicable Disease and Epidemiology at (206) 296-4774. The health department will help you determine if any people or pets in your home may have been exposed and can arrange to test the bat for rabies, if needed. “Bat proof” your home by making sure open windows have screens and that other small entry points—such as cracks, crevices, or holes—are sealed.

What treatment is available after exposure to rabies occurs?

Safe and effective treatment following potential rabies exposure should begin as soon as possible after the exposure occurs. Treatment is a series of shots. These shots, called post-exposure prophylaxis (PEP), include one dose of human rabies immunoglobulin (HRIG) and four doses of rabies vaccine given on a specific schedule over a 14-day period. People with weak immune systems will also need a fifth dose of vaccine and a blood test to check that the vaccine worked.

Treatment can be arranged through your health care provider and your local health department.

What can I do reduce the risk of rabies exposure for my family and me?

• Do not handle wild animals, especially bats.
• Teach your children never to touch or handle bats, even dead ones. Have your children tell an adult if they find a bat at home, at school, or with a pet.
• If you see a wild animal leave it alone.
• Do not keep wild animals as pets.
• Keep bats out of your living space by “bat proofing” your home.
• Pets may get rabies if bitten by a rabid animal. Protect them and yourself by getting them vaccinated routinely. Dogs, cats, and ferrets are now required to be vaccinated in Washington. Consult your veterinarian for vaccine recommendations.

Sources: Washington State Department of Health